Uncovering the fascinating history of a downland church

April 21, 2020

Not all the best archaeology is beneath the ground. James Kenny, Archaeology Officer for Chichester District Council, highlights the case of the parish church at Upwaltham.

Referred to as the ‘untouched and lovable’ church of St Mary the Virgin, Upwaltham, sits in a picturesque location overlooking the A285 between Chichester and Petworth. It’s one of only a handful of medieval churches in West Sussex that retains its apsidal chancel and the basic plan of the building is virtually the same as it was when first built in the 12th century. However, like many a downland village, the church is now almost the only survivor of the original medieval settlement.

The Parish Church Council was awarded funding to undertake repairs from the National Lottery Heritage Fund, and planning permission was granted subject to a condition requiring appropriate recording of archaeological evidence that might be uncovered during the works. Monitoring of the ground-works produced little of archaeological interest.

However, the really important archaeological discoveries were revealed through the removal of render from the exterior and interior of the chancel and from the south-east corner of the nave. The quite regular, face-alternate stone quoins at the corners of the nave, the loosely coursed/herringbone masonry and the use of an apsidal chancel are typical of the late 11th or 12th centuries. All four windows are clearly insertions into the original fabric, being set in areas mortared with a different, creamish-white, chalky lime mortar. The two pairs of inserted trefoil-headed windows are stylistically typical of the 14th or 15th centuries.

The repairs have now been completed and the walls and the archaeological interest they contain are now sealed beneath a protective coat of limewashed render. St Mary’s Church has been safeguarded for the foreseeable future, and we have a much better understanding of its architectural history and significance.